RESTAURANT REVlEW: L'Express

by Steven Rosen

A French brasserie/bistro, slightly noisy with a good atmosphere and a young, vivacious crowd.

Our friend, Linda, was much taken with the two transvestites smooching near the entrance. I had walked right past them, probably a result going to school in the village.

The food was excellent. For appetizers we had an excellent onion soup, calamari filled with a delicious stuffing, a duck liver mousse that my wife said was out of this world and a really great warm goat chest salad. Skip the Caesar salad however, the flavor just wasn’t there. Three out of our four entrees were outstanding, salmon dijonaisse cooked to perfection, gnocchi, grilled with shrimp and scallops and the lamb shank, tasty and delicious. The duck ‘margret’ was enjoyable but too sauced to taste like duck. As for the deserts, the tart tatin with crème fraiche is the best cinnamoned apple you could ask for and the petit pot au chocolate is the richest, finest chocolate pudding going. The cheesecake was average. They also have a tremendous selection of imported beers and a respectable wine list. The menu changes seasonally so these dishes may not always be available. Definitely worth a visit but arrive before 8PM to avoid a wait.

Steven Rosen 303F

662-8440

Restaurant review for the Galaxy newspaper (galaxy-condo.com)

L’Express

289 Park Avenue South at 20th St., New York, NY 10003 212-254-5858

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