A VERY FINE RESTAURANT IN AN UNEXPECTED LOCATION

Restaurant Juniper

By Helen Spindler

The first time I visited this restaurant late last winter, the food was fabulous, but the experience was pure chaos. What happened to Restaurant Juniper was what happens whenever a wonderful review from the NY Times heaps instant success on a new restaurant: the restaurant is barely able to cope.

But the food was so worthwhile, we kept going back. At this point, John and Nafiah have the front end of this unassuming little BYOB restaurant, just off Route 3, running quite smoothly. The time has come to share the news with my Galaxy neighbors.

And what kind of food is it? Well, you could call it American or Nouvelle or Contemporary -- the label makes no difference. The bottom line is that it's inventive, serious cooking, gorgeously presented (except for chicken livers, which are visually hopeless!) and absolutely delicious.

The menu changes seasonally. On a recent fall evening shared with another couple, our appetizers included Risotto with Wild Mushrooms and Truffle Oil, Seared Tuna, sliced and served at room temperature with Salad and Sesame Dressing, Sautéed Calimari with Black Beans in Cilantro Sauce, and the above-mentioned Sautéed Chicken Livers with Onions and Balsamic Vinegar. Accompanying the bread was a lovely, verdant Arugula Pesto, which takes the flavored olive oil served in some places just a step (or two) further.

Choosing a main course was tough: there are so many tempting alternatives, that deciding is best accomplished by the process of elimination. The Duck Breast was served sauteed to the desired doneness, perched on top of a vegetable pedestal: a layer of Turnip and a layer of Swiss Chard. Salmon Fillet also came with Swiss Chard and Roasted Beets. (I personally just love having veggies that I'd never bother making at home served to me in restaurants.) Swordfish Steak was set on top of White Beans and Arugula in a spectacular sauce. And Sliced Leg of Lamb was arranged on an unlikely but delicious combination Fresh Peas, White Beans and Zucchini in a sublime brown sauce. But there were other possibilities -- a veal chop, tuna, monkfish, steak, free-range chicken, etc.

Our group happened to be conservative at dessert time -- a silky Crême Brulée with Strawberries, Warm Apple Spice Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream and Poached Pear with Ice Cream. The "killer chocolate" concoction was tempting, but I was good (sort of).

To have the right perspective on Restaurant Juniper, you should come focused on food. The service -- friendly, relaxed and adequate -- has come a long way since our first frenetic visit, but it still isn't polished. Ambience is nothing special. If anything, the stucco walls make for a somewhat noisy room. And parking is on the street (though valet service is provided on Saturday night). While Restaurant Juniper is not inexpensive, it is a BYOB and a good value for the money, given the superb quality, freshness and preparation of the food. (With the Transmedia Card however, it's a bargain.)

Reservations are mandatory for weekends, and recommended at other times.